Thursday, September 29, 2011

Wanderings, Rewarded

The past two weekends I have spent my Saturdays doing some solo travel into Siena and Lucca. Both are incredibly beautiful, charming, and the perfect size for a day-long exploration. In taking these trips on my own, I have discovered just how much I love traveling by myself.

When I'm on my own, I can
just wander without a strict sense of time. There's no need to make a plan, or stay on track; I just get to meander through the shaded streets and see what I find. Both in Siena and Lucca, I departed with only a vague idea of where I might like to go ( I circled some things in my Lonely Planet). Instead of seeking out the attractions, I decided to see what attracted me, and here's what I got:

cafe and crema gelato


love that I can just stumble upon wonders like this



streets of Siena

the inside of the Saint Caterina cathedral, you're not supposed to take photos, but oh well.
I had seen the description of this church in my guidebook. It specified that admission was free, but when I arrived the first sign I saw said "Entry .50 Euro". "That's strange," I thought, but fifty cents didn't seem unreasonable. So, I walked up to the first lady I saw who was taking money, paid my fifty cents, and walked into the first door I saw without reading the sign. Turns out, it cost fifty cents to use the bathroom, not see the cathedral. That's the other great thing about traveling on your own, no one has to see when you make a total fool of yourself.


magic

beautiful archways, everywhere in Lucca

I had even less of a plan for Lucca than I did for Siena. But my wandering were certainly rewarded. The first thing I ran into was this amazing local artists market. Once a month, local jewelers, ceramicists, glass artists, seamstresses, and many other craftsmen gather in the streets of Lucca to sell their beautiful goods. I could have easily spent my whole day ( and all my money ) at this market.

some of the most gorgeous and unique jewelry I have ever seen, copper wire with beading and clay accents. picked up a little something for me mum

the kind of people I want to be hanging out with

recycled paper jewelry, bowls, and other knick-knacks






the main piazza in Lucca

just bumping into beauty everywhere I go


Lucca is a walled city, on the top of the wall sits this lovely three mile long walking path that you can take all the way around the city.


Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Strange and Wonderful

I have much to write about my recent adventures to Siena and Lucca. But nothing about that seems quite as interesting as the strange, beautiful, and unexpected developments of today.

This morning seemed exceedingly average. We started work late, as usual, and spent a few easy hours in the cellars pressing grapes and doing some clean up work. I suppose the only thing special about this morning was that it was so slow that we ran out of work by eleven, giving us a three hour lunch break.

Around two o'clock, we were cleaning up from lunch and getting ready to head back out to work when two strange characters walked into our kitchen. At first glance, they were a pair of vagabond backpacking hippies ( note: this assumption turned out to be mostly true ). Instinctively, I exclaimed, “Ciao!” as has become my habit when speaking to strangers ( largely because it's the only thing in Italian which I can't mispronounce ). The male of the pair replied with a quizzical look,“Uh hey, we're looking for Cosimo”.  They explained to us that they were WWOOFers who had been in touch with Cosimo about coming to the farm( figures why no one knew they were coming ). Cosimo had told them that someone would pick them up at the station at ten, no one did, they waited an hour, still no one. Finally, they decided to just take the five mile walk to the farm, and here they were!

I was prepared to spend the rest of my two weeks at the winery as a solitary worker, but within three days four new WWOOFers have come waltzing in. M and K are a lovely couple, and I'm excited to welcome them to the crew ( even though I'll be leaving soon ). After leaving a more mundane life in Minnesota, the recently married pair headed out on an adventure. First, they camped for four months in Norway, now they're staying in Italy for a few weeks of WWOOFing, next they head to Africa until January, then to India for a few months, and finally they land in New Zealand.  K explained that they are “ Just looking for a lifestyle that better suits them, and some place that feels more like home”. That philosophy really resonated with me. It feels like with each new personality that is added to the group, I am learning more and more about myself. With the contrast ( and congruence ) between their stories and mine, I am gaining a clearer perspective of what it is I want.

Again with the arrival of new WWOOFers I got to assume the role of knowledgeable leader, and show them everything around the farm. This role feels really good. That is, until someone expects that I am actually a knowledgeable leader. E keeps turning to me as the “head of the WWOOFers”; rattling off orders to me in Italian and assuming that I'll translate them for everyone else.  Fat chance. He even instructed the other four WWOOFers to mop the floor, as he asked me to come help him in the cellar.


I was helping him transfer the Daphne wine from the tank to smaller barrels when I got another unexpected experience. I actually got to go inside the Villa! Well sort of, I more like walked through the courtyard and the hallway on the way to the lower cellar. But still, it felt like I had transgressed some sort of magical barrier. Previously, the Villa had been some sort of forbidden fantasy world in my eyes, a Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory of sorts. Some mysterious place which no one ever talked about. People went in, but not out.




OK, that's an exaggeration.  But without ever seeing the inside of the Villa, or talking with anyone who lives there, I could only assume that the outside was in fact a cardboard cutout simply painted to fool everyone into thinking they were in the presence of a traditional Tuscan mansion.

But upon crossing the mystical threshold into the Villa, I found something even more extraordinary.
On the inside.... it's just a house.

A nice house, yes, but it's just a house. There are toy cars and tricycles laying around for the grandchildren, and some laundry drying from a window. Turns out the Ferrari driving, private chef owning, presumably designer pajama wearing, Villa dwellers are human too. I'll let you chew on that little humbling nugget.

And I'll leave you with the final peculiar and beautiful moment of the day: I was sitting in the kitchen chatting with K before bed, when I heard an unfamiliar meowing coming from the hallway. We only have one cat, an orange tabby named Arturo, and that surely was not him. I peeked my head out to see a big fluffy white cat meowing loudly at the doorway at the end of the hall. Abruptly, the door opened a crack and the cat ran inside. “ Odd...” I thought, and sat back down. But only to be pulled out of my chair again ten seconds later by another unusual meowing. This time a black cat mewed incessantly at the doorway. Obligingly, the door opened a crack, and the cat walked in."What's next?" I thought.

Perhaps, a purple cat who can also magically open doors? More impromptu WWOOFers? Dare I say, more venturing into the Villa?

I can't wait to find out.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

two new friends and some pleasant reminders

Ciao a tutti!

So, the universe delivered two new WWOOF-ers to the farm yesterday.  F and J, a friendly blond pair from Sweden.

It wasn't until their unexpected arrival that I noticed how much I had resigned myself to the mindset of " I am on this trip on my own, and for my own". I was sinking into being the only WWOOFer on the farm, and I had been enjoying the relative solitude as a time for introspection.
For example, the day before they both arrived, A had instructed me to, " go work in the vineyard." So, I spent the entire afternoon on my own just meandering up and down (and up and down) the long rows, fixing posts, and enjoying some one-on-one time with my thoughts.

But as soon as I began talking with F & J, I noticed myself automatically switch roles from quiet worker to outgoing leader. Suddenly, I got to be the one who knew what they were talking about. I showed them all around the property; the cellars, the vineyards, the best spot for picking figs, etc. Getting to explain everything to them really validated just how much I have learned since my arrival.

I relaxed my " I must use this time seriously for transformation" attitude, and just let myself have fun. And when I did, I found that everyone else around me relaxed as well. It has been wonderful allowing myself to simply joke around, play, and enjoy the company of everyone on the farm.

The other day, we were in the vineyard harvesting the Tribiano and Sangiovese grapes. I pointed to a bunch of large red grapes, and asked E if they were also Sangiovese. He replied in his thick Italian accent, "No, these, these is BOMBS." Then promptly plucked off a bunch and began chucking them at L, as he ducked behind me. Needless to say, a full-fledged grape fight ensued in the vineyard.

I love moments like these on the farm. Yes, I came here to work and think and yada yada, but didn't I also come here to just have fun?

Another pleasant reminder came earlier today. A had given the three of us WWOOFers a mini lecture on keeping our house clean. Honestly, I was feeling slightly irritated by it all. Not because it was an unreasonable request, but more so because it brought up (not-so) old feelings of, " JEEZ MOM, I'M EIGHTEEN, I know how to keep my own room clean, you don't need to tell me!"  But man, I'm sure glad he did.

As we were sweeping under the beds, J pulled out a book and handed it to me to dispose of. I turned it over to find " La Strada di Swann, Marcel Proust". For those of ye less Italian speaking, that translates to " Swann's Way by Marcel Proust". I first read Swann's Way for an English project during my senior year of high school. My mom had recommended it to me because of the famous madeline cookie scene, in which the taste of a cookie soaked in tea breaks open the floodgates of the narrator's memory. (AKA my mom thinks I like anything food related, including literature) I was intrigued enough to borrow a copy from the classroom, and as soon as I began reading the novel, I was hooked.

I found Proust's rich prose engrossing and enveloping. I would lose myself in the complex diction and the long trains of thought which the narration followed. The intricacy of his writing ( let alone the story line ) was so great that I could only process it in very small amounts. It took me nearly five months to stomach the whole thing. But when I finally did finish the whole novel, I felt a real pride in what I had just surmounted. Like somehow, by understanding and identifying with Proust's work I had a more comprehensive view of the world. Like I was better at living because of it.

Now sitting before me was the most complicated work I had ever read, made a million times more complex by the fact that it had been translated into Italian. I thought to myself, " Man, if I ever learn Italian well enough to read Proust, then I will truly be a Master. "
But for now, finding Proust tucked in the dust under the bed was a simple and beautiful reminder to take each moment more slowly. Just as Proust's narration dissects each second, describing it in its entirety, I too would like to more fully immerse myself in the present.  I want to really savor every experience, keeping in mind that sometimes the moment can be just plain fun.

So, if you want my advice: relax a little bit, let go of the mind games and play some silly games. And if you're feeling adventurous, go clean your room, you never know what you might find!



ps. Finding Swann's Way also made me really wish that I had brought a copy with me. If any of you kind souls wants to send me one, I'll send some good karma credits your way.














Friday, September 16, 2011

on being a Willing Worker (On an Organic Farm)

     So, I suppose I'll start by telling you a bit about my expectations coming into my time at Cosimo Maria Masini Wines. The WWOOF listing biography didn't tell me all that much. Basically, all it said was that Cosimo Maria Masini Wnes was a traditional winery that followed biodynamic methods. (which is essentially true) However, after further research on their website (cosimomariamasini.it ), I think I let my expectations get the better of me.
   I must have watched the charming little video of Cosimo (owner) and Cipriano (wine maker) at least a million times. They looked so close to one another; laughing as they stood amongst the vines -- chatting about their wines and the rich history of their villa.  I was really impressed by how each of their wines was named after a member of their family. "Now THAT really shows you their commitment to family and tradition", I thought to myself. I imagined myself sitting with the whole family for dinner in the villa, sipping wine, and laughing about how the "Daphne" was just as sweet as the daughter after which it was named. Sounds pretty idyllic, eh?
    Not quite.
    The website claims "Cosimo Masini is a young chartered engineer, who combines a passion for wine-making that embraces tradition and respect for nature with innovation and sustainable production: thus was born the choice of biodynamic farming". As it turns out, "young chartered engineer" is code for owner of one of the largest industrial chemical plants in Italy (called Teseco - yes, its just as ironic as it sounds) Also turns out that wine making is more of a half-hearted hobby of the Masini family than a passion for sustainable production. Lets put it this way, Cosimo can afford (literally) to have an entire winery as hobby.
    To give you a sense of what it's like, I haven't spoken with anyone from the villa thus far (much less gone inside the villa). And, I've only seen Cosimo twice. Once in passing, and once when he stopped by while we were bottling to snap a photo on his Blackberry. 
   
    Late one night, I got to talking with L (over a few bottles of wine) about just how different the winery was from my expectations. She remarked that it frustrated her how many WWOOFers came through, saw that the winery did not match their expectations, and simply "checked out". I think L really summed it up when she said, " Its not what you expected. OK, move on. Whats next? What CAN you learn here?"
    This got me thinking about what it really means to be a WWOOF volunteer, a Willing Worker On an Organic Farm. Not a 'Well-I-guess-I'll-work-sometimes Worker'  or an " I Wanted-something-different-than-this Worker', but a truly willing worker - no matter the situation or expectations.
    There IS so much to love about living and working at Cosimo Maria Masini Wines. There's so many wonderful people who work here. There's L - a former WWOOFer from Ireland who now works for the winery, M - a student from Pisa who is doing work study for his degree in viticulture, C - the super friendly wine maker/ expert in biodynamics, who unfortunately is being let go (by Cosimo, but thats another story), A - the equally friendly, new wine maker, E - another one of the Italian workers, and F - the charming 84 year old gardener who was born at the villa and continues to work day in and day out, among others. I am also learning a vast amount about wine making, as well as gaining a deep appreciation for the amount of work that goes into the whole process.
     So, no one's grandmother is cooking me an Italian dinner, and no one is inviting me for a wine tasting in the villa. So what? I am still willing to learn as much as I can at all times, and drink in every wine soaked moment.


ps. If you read this whole post, bravo to you! It felt really good to write.



    

Sunday, September 11, 2011

a foodie day in florence


On Saturday, E and I took the train into Florence (Firenze) for a day in the city. We started our walking tour with a stop at the Mercato Centrale, an outdoor craft market ( selling mostly leather products ) and an indoor foods market (clearly my favorite of the two). The market was amazing, stand after stand of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, pasta, bread, TONS of mushrooms, and so much more. I indulged ( aka bought without thinking twice) in an apricot jam cookie ( pictured above) and a panini with mozzarella, tomatoes, and pesto.

The best part about this panini? I ordered it in Italian, aaaand she understood what I said!

Outside the Duomo, a huge cathedral - took 150 years to build. We didn't go inside because waiting in line takes four hours, and pre-booked tickets aren't available for weeks. I'm planning to go back on my own another weekend and tour the Duomo, the Ufizzi, and the Galleria Academia ( where the David is housed)

Piazze de Duomo ( the domed church )



an outdoor farmers' market we visited, sampled local honey and wine jelly


Ponte Vecchio ( the coolest bridge I've ever seen) over the Arno River.



E and I


Mille Feuilles (traditional french pastry according to E) and a Cafe Latte, shared


Before heading back to the farm we stopped for a gelato. I tried to order in Italian, but I failed. I had hazelnut/chocolate along side frutti de bosco. E got strawberry and tiramisu. SO GOOD.

I absolutely loved Florence, and can't wait to go back.
Today ( Sunday ) was a lazy day, very very quiet on the farm.  Enjoyed some napping in the shade, some yoga in the grass, and some veggie curry for dinner. As I write this post I'm laying on my bed, and a bat keeps flying over my head into our room. Apparently, E says hes been doing that for the past few days without me noticing. Anyways, we are continuing the harvest tomorrow ( most of it was done before I arrived, and they took a break to allow more fruit to ripen ), so I'm excited to get my hands dirty. That's all for now, ciao ciao a tutti!

Friday, September 9, 2011

the view from my bed,  click to enlarge



E, and I on the way to San Miniato

San Miniato

enjoying the fruits of our labor


first tuscan sunset, a good omen a think