Thursday, July 18, 2013

call to prayer

Five times a day, like a wailing siren, the call to prayer rings through the city. The chorus of disembodied voices proclaiming God's greatness is, at first, a bit alarming. But soon the call becomes a familiar punctuation to the day, and, moreover, a reminder to pause and reflect. The call to prayer highlights the surrounding beauty by demanding one's presence and attention. And often it underscores irony, like when the call caught us sitting in a dingy attic cafe in Casablanca filled with young hashish smoking Moroccans.  

Below,  a photo of our first call to prayer, overlooking Chefchaouen at sunset. 



The blue city



Laundry day at the river, Chef Chaouen

Charles getting a proper shave in Fez

The Moroccan drinking fountain: men dressed in these red outfits dispense cool water from the sheepskin canteens on their backs


Market in the medina (old city) in Meknes






Mint, a staple of the Moroccan diet

Your friendly neighborhood cow foot vendor



This was a very important stop on our journey: the Danan synagogue in Fes. I felt honored to be in the synagogue that bears my family name in a city where the Danans lived for hundreds of years. Visiting heritage sites has been a focal point of this trip, and I don't want to brush over the subject too lightly. Ill delve deeper in my next post.



Harira: traditidatonal Moroccan soup made with tomatoes, chickpeas, noodles, and cilantro.


Street food in Rabat: a sandwich with fried egg, eggplant, and peppers. Only 75 cents! 
Below: the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca,  the third largest mosque in the world. It carries the same majestic air as the Taj Mahal.



Early one morning,  while the air was still dark and cool, a familiar sound shook my sleep and sent my dreams whirling. The call was louder that morning, almost a war cry signaling the beginning of Ramadan. Half asleep, I was swept up in a gust of hot Saharan wind, a flurry of sand battered my face and I was separated from my dream companions. I called out, but there was no one around to answer.
The magical part is, just one week after I awoke from that dream, I was actually there - caught in a dust storm in the dunes of the Sahara desert riding in a camel caravan.
"Did you hear that?" asked Charles over the howl of the wind. Very distant, like an echo of an echo, I could hear the call to prayer. After that, the winds settled and the sun dipped beyond the edge of the desert. The world was quiet, just the shadow of a camel under a crescent moon, the sound of soft footsteps and sand.






Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Southward bound


Three weeks ago, I felt like I did at the beginning of my Vipassana silent mediation course in India. That is to say, I felt a bit daunted staring at the expanse of time that lay ahead while thoughts of Chico and murmurs of "when I get back.." vied for my attention. I glared at Charles and thought to myself, "Oh my god, nine more weeks," 
"Stop staring at me, weirdo," he shot back. Sigh. 
 But here we are, at the close of our time in Spain, and it feels like we have settled comfortably into our travel rhythm. Our pace seemed to take on the leisurely measure of life here in Spain; we took the mornings slowly, the afternoons sleepily, and the late nights wandering happily through the unusually lively streets.


Our first chocolate and churros experience in Spain, prompted by a drop in blood sugar and a google search for the "best chocolate and churros in Madrid." It was delicious. We also searched for the best gelato in Madrid, which turned out to be around the corner from our hostel, so we ate there four times.

Look! We found another Danan sister wandering through Spain!

It was great to spend time with Liora, here we are in the gardens of the Alhambra. The Alhambra was a fortress and palace for the Moors who lived in Granada. Its a massive complex layered with gardens, intricately carved buildings, and sweeping views.








Apparently instead of tanning, Charles turns greenish-blue and I turn pink?

The Alhambra at sunset.

Our second chocolate and churros experience.. Charles ate most of it.

We went hunting for a "flamenco cave" per recommendation of my good friend, Cooper. "Just wander up the river in Granada at ten o'clock at night under the full moon and listen for the sounds of flamenco, you´ll find it," he said. Well, our search wasn´t quite so romantic, and I´m not positive it was the same place, but it was certainly a flamenco cave and it was definitely an amazing performance.  The guitarist´s cool demeanor made the complexity of the melodies seem fluid, while the dancer´s fierce gaze highlighted the almost heart-breaking passion of the music.


This photo is from the Casa Sepharad, the Sephardic (Spanish) Jewish museum in Cordoba. It summarizes some of the teachings of Maimonides, a renowned Jewish rabbi and scientist, regarding a proper diet. Though the validity of the claims is debateable, certain Danans will tell you that we are direct decendents of Maimonides. So who better to take advice from, right? Except for he hates apricots and eggplants and swears by baby lamb.. 

Directly disregarding maimonides, we ate fried eggplant for lunch


the mesquita in cordoba
"goat cheese quesadilla" in Seville


The skyline of Seville


Now we are in Chefchaouen, Morocco, a beautiful city tucked into the rif valley. The streets here are washed in an entrancing shade of periwinkle blue making everything feel breezy and open. I am certainly wooed by the scenes here: the young man leading his goats to pasture, women washing their rugs in a stream, the smell of tagine wafting from a home, and the call to prayer echoing from the rooftop. Hopefully a better internet connection and many pictures will follow soon..








Tuesday, June 11, 2013

So far, so beautiful.



The journey begins! The next two months will take us through Spain, Morocco, and Israel on a quest to reconnect with our heritage. Our dad's side of the family is from Morocco and, we believe,  originally from Spain. I am eager to better understand my  relationship with this region,  and I wonder when (or if) I will feel a connection. Will I have some sort of revelation in an ancient synagogue in Barcelona? Will I feel at home in the neighborhood where my dad grew up? Or perhaps my body is best adapted to this bio-region, and I will 
naturally feel the most healthy here.  





Forty eight hours,  four planes, and not much sleep later. . We arrived in Barcelona. 





The first neighborhood we stayed in,  Gracia, was quite charming.  As we walked to the plaza with our picnic, ambient accordian music filled the air. Where are we?  The baguet in tow spoke more of France than Spain, and the narrow streets with floral dressed balconies recalled my time in Italy.


We spent the weekend in Barcelona with an awesome couch surfing host.  We ate paella, drank cervecas, and watched flamenco.  Next we journeyed to Girona (pictured above) which has one of the most well preserved Jewish quarters I'm Spain. 



Almond milk in Spain!


 



From Girona, we traveled north to Figueres to visit the Dali museum.
Definitely the coolest art museum I've been to, and very strange as well; I wasnt expecting to see his grave casually perched in one of the galleries.





Let's go to France, I suggested.  Let's go to the beach and get tan, said Charles. Next thing you know, we found our way to Tossa de Mar, a small coastal city, for a spontaneous Mediterranean getaway.  The water is crystal clear and the air is fresh.  We are much happier than this photo suggests.  


Ill try to post as best I can, but blogging fron a phone quite a chore.. 

Thursday, September 13, 2012

my super tremendous guide to being a care-less (err care-free) traveler

After eleven months and four countries (I'm going to go ahead and count Greece) it is my duty and heartfelt privilege to impart my invaluable wisdom on how to be a suave and sassy traveler, such as myself. Now, dear readers, don't be phased by the fact that almost everything in my original backpack has either been lost, broken, stolen, eaten by wild animals, or run over by a bus. I assure you that my advice is of the utmost quality, and should you keep these pointers in mind, all of your adventures henceforth will be blessed and guided.

1) You are never alone 
I mean this in the least creepy and most comforting way possible. When you find yourself on the wrong bus, wandering aimlessly in Tel Aviv, or even just feeling plain lonely in your hostel in Rome, remember that there is always someone to help you! I remember the first night I arrived in Italy, I stood dazed in the bustling train station in Florence trying to decode my (entirely Italian) train ticket. An elderly man standing a few yards away took one look at me and said, "Empoli? Platform four, don't forget to stamp your ticket." How he knew where I was going ( heck, I didn't even know ), I'll never be sure. The point is, if you are open to help from unexpected sources, help will always find a way.

2) Being small gets you free stuff!
Like cheese! And sweaters! If you're not small yet, Id recommend starting at least 2-3 months before your scheduled departure.

3) Use your DGPS (Divine Guidance Positioning System)
Seriously, this is the way I traveled most of my trip. I would set my DGPS to whatever I was looking for ( a bead store, falaffel, the Colusseum, etc) and let my intuition do the rest. Yes, it takes a lot of trust, but believe me, you'll always be in the right place at the right time.

4)Travel Towels
Rock.

5) The Universe provides (.. and so do your parents .. )
Need something? It will come. When I decided I needed a sleeping bag, the next day a man at the EFT retreat offered me his to keep, without me even needing to ask! And when I decided I needed a new camera for India, I found a Canon Powershot at the 'free' market at the farm on which I was working. And clothes? Don't even get me started. The trick here is that you have to be just as willing to let stuff go as you are willing to let stuff in. Abundance flows, that means that sometimes you must release in order to receive.

6) Laugh it off
Take everything in good humor - this applies especially to travel in India. Getting lost, hassled, and stared at is all part of the game. Keep your spirits light, and try not to nit pick the culture.

7) Water and Chocolate
These are your two most important travel companions.

8) Pack at least one thing you actually like to wear
Unwittingly, I showed up in Italy with a backpack full of work clothes and a pair of hiking boots. There's nothing fun about a night out in Rome when you're covered in mud and smell like cow shit.

9) Self maintenance days
Every few weeks, take a day off from traveling and treat yourself. Go all out; do your laundry, clean your ears, clip your nails, the whole shebang. Self maintenance days are also a great excuse to eat extra gelato.

10) It's not stealing..
It's permaculture. It's all about utilizing your resources to the fullest. So I'm staying at your house, and you've got some extra toothbrushes... Imma take one. I'll go ahead and refill my shampoo while I'm here too. Napkins from a restaurant? More like extra toilet paper for later!

A short list, but hopefully enough to get you started.

I'm fairly rooted in Chico at the moment, but I think I'll keep the blog going; a place to dump some extra thoughts. Be on the look-out.


Thursday, May 10, 2012

On being Jewish.

Why are Jews so weird?

This questions seems to be stalking me lately, lurking in the undertones of conversation, and pouncing in my most vulnerable moments. Say, when I tell someone, "My mom is a Rabbi." "Oh wow," he'll reply, "so maybe you can explain to me why Jews act the way they do?" I brace myself. I can feel my stomach lurch and my shoulders tense as my mind scrambles to gather a list of 'because's'. He continues, "Why are they so self-segregating and exclusive? And with so many strange rituals, what's so special about them?"

I find myself on the defensive. My mind is so jaded with antisemitic-defense-mechanisms that I can barely think clearly. You see, I've always hated this question and how it conjures images of early Nazi Germany, making me think, "it all started with comments like this." Only recently, though, have I actually had the space to give this question some serious consideration.

A few months ago, I was discussing Judaism with my uncle, David. "I'm not religious," he told me, "but I am very much a Jew." This puzzled me; how can you be one and not the other? Indeed, I had been faced before with the conundrum of the secular-Jew, but never quite so blatantly. David's not religious, but he still hangs mezoozot on all his doorways. David's not religious, but he still says kiddish and keeps Shabbat. David's not religious, but, as he told me, he was, "born a Jew, and always will be a Jew."

What irks me the most, though, is that .. I agree with David. There is something about me that is inherently, utterly, and undeniably, Jewish.


Phew, step one is completed. I admit it, I am a Jew.
Step two: Jews are weird, accept it.

On my way to the Passover Seder I traveled by bus through Jerusalem. Every twenty yards stood another group of Hasidim dressed in full black, circled around a bon fire, burning untouched loaves of bread. The same scene rolled passed the bus window over and over like an unedited film of some strange Pagan bread sacrificing ritual. Of course, they were all just clearing their homes of any trace of "hametz" before the Passover holiday. I mean what's so weird about that, Arielle? You've been doing this your whole life, haven't you? But now, safely removed from the situation, sitting as a spectator on a bus, I could see this tradition from another angle. And, well, it was just plain freaky looking.

That evening, I spent the Passover Seder with my friend, Ido's, family. His family was unashamedly more interested in eating dinner than any part of the Passover ceremony. We hustled through the fifteen steps of the Seder in a fury as I scurried to translate (first from Hebrew to English, then to something that would make sense to a reasonable human being) what was happening to my friend, Jane, who had never been to Seder before. "Okay, so there was this guy named Moses.. and ten plagues... and now you dip that parsley in the salt water... recline to the left while you drink that .. oh and there's something about four children ... and we hide that piece of matzo. and," wow.. this stuff is weird. I felt like an actor who, having memorized her lines, was now reading through the script for the first time.

As shocking as it was to finally see Judaism as it looks from an objective stance ( kind of crazy, that is )  Admitting that we are unusual is not so difficult for me, what really gets me is, why are we this way? And why are we afraid to be this way in coexistence with others? Jews are, in my experience, largely  self-segregating. We cling so tightly to the notion that we are fundamentally different than everyone else; that, somehow, our Judaism defines us beyond the boundaries of religious practice, and, therefore, we can only hope to be fully understood by one another. Still, this answer feels like an unfounded excuse to me. It addresses the 'why', but only by evading a deeper, and more conclusive, truth.

Well, where better to explore my conflict with Judaism, than in the much more heated setting of the Palestinian/Israeli conflict.

Recently, I volunteered for an organization called Eco ME located inside the West Bank, just outside of Jericho. Eco ME is a center open to all Israelis, Palestinians, and internationals who are willing to gather in the common spirit of respect for one another and the earth. Eco ME is located, literally and figuratively, on a junction between languages, cultures, and politics; yet, it is able to maintain a peaceful atmosphere because its founders are committed to creating a space built on trust and not fear.

While I was there, they gave a presentation about the organization to a church group visiting from Germany. "Why are Jews so strange?" a man asked Ilana, one of the founders of Eco ME. He continued, "I have a theory that they are seeking revenge. That, somehow, they want to pass on their pain to others," he spoke clearly of Palestinians in this case. Ilana sighed, and smiled uncomfortably before answering, she clearly hated this question as much as I did.  "I don't believe they are seeking revenge," she replied rather calmly, "I believe they are acting on the only thing they know." She continued to explain that Jews grow up on stories of oppression, from the Passover telling of how 'we' were slaves in Egypt to Haman's decree to kill all the Jew's in Persia to the destruction of the Holy Temple(s) in Jerusalem. Indeed, I can attest that I have been a fed of diet of victim stories from a very young age.

Thus far, this is the best reason I have found to justify the 'why' of 'why are Jews so weird?'; our behavior is simply a product of the ritualized telling of the tale of the victim. We have absorbed this narrative so fully into our religious practice that it spills over and quickly becomes a defining characteristic of the Jewish mentality, religious or not. As a friend of mine once put it, Israel is the only nation who's anthem is sung in a minor key. It is only natural then, that with this mind-set, Jews would become self-segregating in search of safety. Which, when viewed from a third party, reveals a people that seems suspicious, uninviting, and strange.

Yet, somehow, I feel unsatisfied with this answer. Even armed with this explanation, I still feel powerless to the question at hand. Perhaps it is because it is not mere justification that I seek. Rather, I feel that if I am "always going to be Jewish," as my uncle David said, then it's time I start being a better representation of what that means.

I intend to show, through the example of my own behavior, that Jews are no longer the self-pitying victim. Instead, what connects me to my fellow Jews, and likewise to all other people, is a love and ritual care for the earth, myself, and others. My spirituality transcends the boundaries of the old narrative, and my desire for well-being and peace for everyone is stronger than any will I have to safeguard my old patterns.

And, if it all sounds a bit peculiar, it's OK, I'm Jewish.





Thursday, March 15, 2012

On the Shvil again


Following the Green Apprenticeship at Kibbutz Lotan, I set off on a two week backpacking adventure with Max and Adam, friends from the course. Max and I started the first week exploring the Negev with a visit to the Ramon Crator (Maktesh Ramon) and Ein Gedi. 

Even after two months spent living in the Arava Desert ( the second most arid in the world ), I was still captivated by the beauty of the desert landscape. There is nothing like an expanse of rock and sand to make you appreciate life. I felt in awe of every brittle shrub which seemed to ignore the laws of nature and grow without the presumed prerequisites of soil and water. 

 

 

 

I also felt in awe of things like Ibex chilling in this playground

You can do whatever you want, but for god's sake, DO NOT PICK THE FLOWERS 

It's views like this that make me sigh, " Damn, I love my life " 

Multicolored sands inside of the crater 
After much searching, Max and I found the famed ammonite wall, these were seriously impessive. 
Max being an ammonite? 

What is the plural of Ibex?




Ah the Dead Sea, a watery desert masquerading as an oasis..

We did find a real oasis though, in the form of the Ein Gedi Springs
We wore sunscreen
And looked cool
I recall swimming in this same pool twelve or so years ago, felt good to be back





Our sweet campsite at Ein Gedi
sunrise over the salty sea



Morning meditation 
 After Ein Gedi, Max and I travelled north-bound. We met up with Adam and started hiking from Kibbutz Dan, the official start of the Shvil Israel or Israeli National Trail.
My studly hiking buddies

Ready to hike!



If I had trouble comprehending how any life managed to survive in the desert, the north of Israel presented the opposite problem. The ground swelled with dewy greenery and life sprang from every crack in the ecstasy of the recent rainfall. I couldn't decide whether the fluorescent green of the grass was actual or if my eyes had yet to adjust from my eight week sojourn in the desert. And amongst the overwhelming green were spread wildflowers in all the brilliance of Renior's rainbow palette; a backdrop of wild mustard in soft yellow sprinkled with hot red poppies, delicate fairy pink, and the occasional blue bonnet look-alike to complete the spectrum.

 





The trail hugged the edges of the Hula Valley, taking us south along the Lebanese border. We gawked at the surrounding beauty as we plodded along muddy cow paths, crossed springtime streams, and forged our way through mossy canyons. 

 

 

 

We hiked along that road the whole morning, only to cross the fence and read those signs. Guess we were closer to the boarder than I thought! Silly Shvil. 



We found the most amazing campsites. Each one in a grassy field somehow more beautiful than the last.
 
Sprouting!

One particularly lovely morning found us climbing through a shady, boulder paved ravine. The emerald trees and beautiful stones were indeed so mesmerizing that we completely disregarded the fact (and Max will deny this) that we were hiking in the wrong direction. 

 

We had somehow started the day's hike where we were intended to end the previous day's. We stood dumbfounded for a minute, and then discussed our options; someone suggested walking to the nearest highway and looking for a bus to Tsfat. "It will take forever to find a bus stop," one person complained. "There's no way we'll make it to Tsfat today," I grumbled.

Lo and behold, as we pushed our way through the last bit of weeds and stepped onto the highway, the first thing we laid eyes on was a bus stop headed to Tsfat. 

We camped high atop the old city, and, after a majestic sunrise, began our descent to the Sea of Galilee through the Nahal Amud Nature Reserve. 





































This way by far my favorite day of our trek; the trail winded through two lush canyons, passed by turquoise lagoons, and at times narrowed to little more than metal hand-holds climbing over boulders. 

 

We got a little tribal and painted our faces with purple olives..











Exploring some ruins





The Amud Pillar






As the sky turned to a periwinkle dusk, we exited the canyon and began walking along a 
cow-pressed path, lazily curving its way through rolling green hills. We stopped to admire a patch of iridescent purple flowers, and my mind slowly wandered West.. I could feel myself in the pasture lands of Ireland, waiting for a shepherd and his flock to crest the hill.. Or perhaps I was back in Tuscany, sleepily meandering back to the villa after a day in the vineyards.. Certainly I was home in Upper Bidwell Park, when the winter rains turn the valley green. Max suggested that we were in Middle Earth. Alas, the sounds of army test fire from a nearby base brought me back to Israel. 

It was a magical trip, and I loved being able to see such a different side of this country. 
Who knew I would love it here so much? 



This next week I start work at a farm in the north called Yesh Meain. Yesh Meain, which translates to "something from nothing", was actually started by a former Green Apprentice. I am greatly looking forward to getting back to work, and I'll keep ya'll posted. Errr, if I can, that is. Ya see, my  computer self-destructed.. and my camera is still broken. Now, if I can only master updating my blog telepathically.